Prada Called It ‘New’—We’ve Worn It for Centuries: The Kolhapuri Chappal Saga

Introduction: A Scandal in Leather

When Prada, the Italian luxury powerhouse, unveiled a pair of handcrafted sandals resembling the iconic Indian Kolhapuri chappals—priced over ₹60,000—the fashion world gasped. But in India, the reaction was different: a mix of outrage, disbelief, and a strong wave of cultural pride. For many Indians, this wasn’t just about a designer shoe—it was about recognition, ownership, and justice for centuries of forgotten artisanship.

This blog explores the history, evolution, cultural symbolism, and modern controversies surrounding Kolhapuri chappals. It’s also a call to reclaim what is rightfully ours.

 

 

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1. The Origins: A Craft Forged in Heat and Heritage

Long before fashion runways and global markets, the Kolhapuri chappal was born in the dusty bylanes of Maharashtra. These handmade leather sandals have been worn by farmers, saints, royals, and rebels alike.

📜 Historical Roots

• The earliest known version of Kolhapuri chappals dates back to the 13th century.

• They were patronized by the Siddis of Janjira and later popularized during the Maratha rule.

• The traditional chappal was made from buffalo leather, soaked in natural oils and dyed using vegetable-based colors, ensuring both comfort and longevity.

🧵 Artisan Clusters

• Villages like Athani, Sangli, Kolhapur, and Miraj became famous for their unique versions of the chappal.

• Each region had its own tweak—some preferred pointed toes, others flat soles, and some favored ornate braiding.

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2. Symbol of Simplicity and Strength

Far from being a mere accessory, the Kolhapuri chappal carried a cultural weight.

🧘 Worn by Saints and Seekers

• Many Indian saints and spiritual leaders, including those in the Warkari movement, favored Kolhapuris for their natural materials and barefoot-feel—ideal for long pilgrimages.

🤝 A Marker of Equality

• Unlike other garments that signified caste or class, Kolhapuris were egalitarian. Both kings and commoners wore them, sometimes even from the same craftsmen.

🇮🇳 A Swadeshi Statement

• During the freedom struggle, these chappals became symbols of indigenous pride—a rejection of British leather shoes and imported goods.

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3. Evolution in Design: From Utility to Urban Cool

🧷 Traditional vs. Modern

🛍️ Urban Appeal

In the 2000s, Indian designers like Sabyasachi, Payal Khandwala, and Masaba Gupta began incorporating Kolhapuris into runway collections—bringing village craft to elite closets.

👟 Gen-Z & Streetwear

Kolhapuris made a comeback in college campuses and Instagram feeds—styled with jeans, sarees, kurtas, or even suits.

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4. The Prada Controversy: When Culture Meets Capitalism

 

💼 What Happened?

In early 2024, Prada’s Resort Collection featured a sandal called “Gurung” that bore an uncanny resemblance to traditional Kolhapuris—right down to the stitching and braiding—but with no mention of India, its artisans, or heritage.

💸 The Price Tag Shock

• Prada's Sandal Cost: ₹60,000+

• Actual Artisan Price in India: ₹300–₹800

The gap wasn’t just in price—it was in credit, respect, and ethics.

📣 The Outrage

Indian netizens and designers took to social media:

"This isn’t inspiration—it’s appropriation."

Hashtags like #KolhapuriNotPrada and #RespectTheCraft began trending.

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5. Cultural Appropriation vs. Cultural Appreciation

🧭 The Fine Line

Cultural appropriation occurs when:

• A dominant culture adopts elements from a marginalized culture

• Without acknowledging the source

• And profiting disproportionately

In Prada’s case:

• No Indian artisans were involved

• No royalties or collaborations were announced

• No cultural context was mentioned

✅ What Could Prada Have Done?

• Collaborated with Indian cooperatives

• Highlighted the craftsmanship lineage

• Shared revenue or created artisan-endorsed versions

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6. GI Tag and the Fight for Legal Recognition

In 2019, Kolhapuri chappals received a Geographical Indication (GI) tag from the Indian government, recognizing them as region-specific intellectual property.

🛡️ What Is a GI Tag?

• A legal sign used on products that have a specific geographic origin

• Signifies quality, reputation, or distinctiveness

Benefit? It protects against foreign brands falsely claiming origin or originality.

👣 Why It Matters

With GI recognition, artisans can:

• Demand global recognition

• Fight misrepresentation

• Leverage it for export rights

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7. The Economic Reality of Artisans

📉 Declining Numbers

• Once over 30,000 artisans across Maharashtra and Karnataka, now fewer than 10,000 remain active.

• Younger generations are leaving due to low wages and lack of modern exposure.

📦 Export Irony

• While foreign brands earn lakhs, local artisans struggle to ship internationally due to logistics, language, and digital gaps.

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8. The Way Forward: Revival, Not Romanticism

💡 Innovation with Ethics

• Indian startups and D2C brands like Desi Hangover, Chappers India, and Solethreads are fusing heritage with contemporary style.

• Collaborations with NGOs and handloom clusters are essential.

📲 Tech for Craft

• Shopify stores, Instagram branding, and 3D visualizers can help artisans reach urban buyers.

• Augmented reality “try-ons” for Kolhapuris? Why not!

🧑🎓 Education & Awareness

• Schools and fashion institutes should teach Indian craft histories alongside international design movements.

• Fashion influencers and celebrities must promote local artisans, not just global brands.

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9. Why This Matters for India

Kolhapuri chappals are not just footwear. They are:

• Living history

• Sustainable design

• Cultural soft power

🌍 Global Implications

In an era where cultural narratives are currency, India must protect, promote, and profit from its crafts. Kolhapuri chappals are just one of many.

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10. Conclusion: Reclaiming the Narrative

Prada may have sparked a controversy—but it also started a much-needed conversation. About heritage. About fairness. About pride.

India has always walked tall in Kolhapuris. Now it’s time the world recognized not just the shoe—but the story behind it.

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📌 Take Action

• Buy authentic Kolhapuris from verified artisan cooperatives.

• Share stories of heritage crafts on social media.

• Support brands that give back to the creators.

• Demand transparency and accountability from global fashion houses.